New links for apparel brands to child labour cotton

A report by the human rights group Transparentem has revealed that major global apparel brands, including Adidas, H&M and the Gap, have sourced cotton from farms in India where child labour practices are alleged. The investigation, conducted over 90 cotton farms in Mad-hya Pradesh from 2022 to 2023, uncovered widespread violations of child labour laws. 

Children under 14 are prohibited from working in the fields completely and those aged 14 to 18 restricted to non-hazardous tasks. Despite these laws, over 10 million children in India continue to work in agriculture due to poverty and lax enforcement. The report highlighted indicators of forced labour and abusive conditions, with many workers trapped in a cycle of debt bondage. The farms investigated supplied cotton to Indian companies, which then sold to the global brands. 

While the brands claimed to have ethical sourcing arrangements, the findings suggest that these abuses are systemic and likely to affect many other farms in the region. Transparentem says it has reached out to international buyers to discuss the findings and recommend remediation actions.

In 2021, JBS, the world's largest meatpacker, announced a significant target of achieving net-zero emissions by 2040 and to end illegal deforestation across its supply chain, particularly in the Brazilian Amazon. However, in a recent interview with news organisation Reuters, the company's global chief sustainability officer Jason Weller stated that this net-zero goal was merely an aspiration rather than a binding promise. The company says it has “zero operational, contractual or legal control” over its supply chain, which accounts for 97% of its emissions. Investors have largely avoided pressuring JBS on its sustainability practices, and the company's profits continue to grow

Critics argue JBS has made insufficient progress in controlling supply-chain emissions, which contribute significantly to deforestation in the Amazon, where cattle ranching is responsible for 80% of deforestation.

The NGO Mighty Earth criticised JBS for evading accountability regarding its environmental impact, highlighting the urgent need for the company to take responsibility for its supply chain practices. MightyEarth called for immediate action to address deforestation and methane emissions from livestock agriculture, especially in light of recent extreme weather events in Brazil.

Biologists from the Aarhus University in Denmark are advocating for the use of ants as natural allies in combating crop diseases exacerbated by climate change. Recent studies from Denmark reveal that various ant species, particularly wood ants and weaver ants, can effectively combat crop diseases and pests without the harmful effects associated with synthetic pesticide. 

Wood ants have been shown to reduce the plant disease known as apple scab by an impressive 61%, while weaver ants may inhibit fungal diseases in mangoes. These tiny insects possess antimicrobial properties and can serve as effective alternatives to harmful synthetic pesticides, which are increasingly costly and environmentally damaging. As farmers seek more sustainable practices, leveraging the natural benefits of ants could not only enhance crop resilience, but also lower agricultural costs in a changing climate.

The BBC has been investigating working conditions in factories in Guangzhou, China, that supply fast fashion giant Shein. Many workers in the so-called “Shein village” report long hours, often exceeding 75 hours a week, with some having only one day off per month, in violation of Chinese labour laws. The workers, primarily migrants earn wages of less than a dollar per piece produced. 

Shein has faced allegations of forced labour and child labour in the past, admitting to discovering underage workers in its factories. Despite these controversies, the company has rapidly expanded, driven by its vast inventory and low prices. Critics argue that Shein's business model exploits workers while raising significant ethical concerns about the fast fashion industry. 

The US, meanwhile, has imposed a ban on imports from 37 Chinese companies, including Huafu Fashion, a leading textile manufacturer, due to alleged human rights abuses related to forced labour in the Xinjiang region. This action is part of the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, which aims to combat human rights violations and genocide against Uyghurs and other ethnic minorities in China.

The companies accused of being involved in forced labour practices span various sectors, including textiles, mining and solar energy. The US department of homeland security stated that these companies have been linked to practices that violate human rights, particularly in relation to cotton production in Xinjiang, where reports of internment camps and forced labour have emerged. This ban adds to the growing list of companies restricted under the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act, which now includes 144 entities since its enactment in December 2021. 

The “Race to Belém” initiative, launched at the World Economic Forum’s annual meeting in Davos, Switzerland, aims to raise $1.5bn to protect the Amazon rainforest through carbon credit sales linked to conservation efforts. Supported by global energy and commodities trading company Mercuria, and led by organisations such as Conservation International and The Nature Conservancy, the initiative seeks to attract transformative private investments ahead of the UN COP30 climate summit in Brazil. With over 6,200 square kilometres of the Amazon lost in 2024, it focuses on reducing deforestation, engaging Brazilian states and local communities, and promoting sustainable practices.